Almost two years since my last visit, I recently made a return trip to Copenhagen. We’d got tickets for Copenhagen Beer Celebration and also decided to stay a few extra days before it to return to some old favourites and check out the new places that had sprung up since our last visit to the Danish capital. Here’s a little guide to the craft beer bars we went to during our five days in Copenhagen.
Mikkeller and Friends Bottle Shop
It’s moved from its previous location next to Mikkeller and Friends to the Torvehallerne market close to Norreport Station. Although the space is smaller (or maybe it just seems it), it makes sense to have it in this market as it’s full of great food places and I can imagine people stopping in while picking up other bits and bobs – plus, it was even better from us as we were staying round the corner. As well as beers on the shelves, there’s a fully stocked fridge so we started off our visit with a can each and some quesadillas at the market – perfect!
Frederiksborggade 21 http://mikkeller.dk/location/mikkeller-friends-bottle-shop/
An Australian-themed bar would usually be somewhere I’d probably not even give a second glance to, but we had very good reason to visit – an Omnipollo tap takeover. Located in a little courtyard, it’s quite a cosy little bar but had plenty of outdoor seating and is a world away from the tacky UK chain of Aussie-themed venues. Definite highlight was the Anagram Blueberry Cheesecake imp stout, what a beer. Although we were only there for the Omnipollo beers, looking at the website it does have a pretty decent selection of draught beers from Scandinavia and beyond.
Gothersgade 8D http://banksia.dk/en
Lord Nelson was somewhere we visited in our last visit to the city and two years on, nothing’s changed. Still cosy, still lots of Danish microbreweries and still helpful bar staff more than willing to give you tasters and recommendations. Great pub.
Hyskenstræde 9 http://www.lordnelson.dk/
Warpigs didn’t exist when we last visited so this was somewhere I was very excited to visit. And it did not disappoint! A huge venue in the Meatpacking district of the city, it serves BBQ grub alongside a huge range of excellent beers – some of which are brewed in house. The first thing that hits you is the aromas of food – it all smells bloody delicious (and I’m a non-meat eater).
There’s two queues – one for food (and beer) and one just for beer. As we visited in CBC week, it was fairly busy at all times but well worth the queuing time. A range of cuts of meat are available along with a collection of sides and one veggie main option which is quite possibly the world’s best macaroni and cheese. And the beer? There’s 20 taps featuring predominately beers brewed in house so there’s plenty on offer to try. A small shop is also located on site selling merch, beer and even bottles of their sauces to take away.
In fact, we loved Warpigs so much that we visited four times in the space of five days. I’m also still thinking about the pecan pie pretty much constantly.
Flæsketorvet 25 – 37 http://warpigs.dk/
Øl & Brød
I’d never describe myself as a foodie as I’ve got relatively simple tastes but I was very intrigued to visit Mikkeller’s Øl & Brød so we booked in for lunch before our arrival in Copenhagen. During the day, there’s a menu of smørrebrød while at dinner time there’s more substantial meals on offer. I say that, but the smørrebrød themselves were a lot heartier than they first appeared to be – and you could really sense the skill and care that had gone into making each and every one.
In terms of the beer, there were ten options available on draught and the majority of these were from Mikkeller with a nice mix of styles including session IPAs, pilsners, porters and more. A great little lunch spot and it also had the benefit of being just a few feet from the Mikkeller Bar!
Viktoriagade 6 http://ologbrod.com/
Another venue that’s not changed since our last trip. The Mikkeller Bar in Vesterbro is fairly cosy and decorated with a cool and contemporary typically Scandi design which keeps it feeling bright and airy even at night time, and they also lay on some outdoor benches for the warmer months. A total of 20 draught beers are available at any one time featuring Mikkeller, Warpigs and beers from around the world.
During our second visit they were hosting a 3 Floyds event so we jointly purchased the most expensive beer I have ever bought: Dark Lord – Quit Hitting Yourself. Luckily, it was fantastic. Phew.
Viktoriagade 8 8 B-C http://mikkeller.dk/location/mikkeller-bar-viktoriagade-copenhagen/
Ramen to Bíiru
Prior to our visit, we weren’t sure if we’d be visiting Ramen to Bíiru as 3 of the 4 of us were awkward non-meat eaters and everything on the menu featured chicken stock. But luckily, they have a monthly special and for May it was a veggie dish so we were able to experience it in full.
A quirky design and an even quirkier set up made it a very fun place to visit. You order your food on a machine, take your ticket to the counter to pay then grab and seat and wait for your number to be called. Even more impressive was the beer vending machine. It was stocked with a range of Mikkeller cans as well as some green tea and included a notice reminding patrons that only over 18s could purchase beer. A nice little novelty to try!
Griffenfeldsgade 28 – http://mikkeller.dk/location/ramen-to-biiru-2/
It’s got to be said that I’m a big fan of free beer, so when we heard that BRUS were having an opening party complete with freebies we had to go and check it out. Owned by To Ol, it’s a huge venue located in an old factory in Nørrebro with includes a microbrewery, a restaurant and a specialist food and beer shop along with the bar.
The opening party itself was a big event featuring DJs and, as you might expect when somewhere is giving away free beer in a city as expensive as Copenhagen, a lot of people. A very impressive building but a slightly hectic atmosphere.
However, we did make a return visit to BRUS a few days later for their special brunch event. This allowed me to get more of a feel for what the venue is actually like – a relaxed, family-friendly space with some excellent beer and (by the looks of it) good grub. During our visit, there were about 20 beers on draught – although the board did go up to 30-odd so maybe they have more on when it’s not the launch!
Guldbergsgade 29F https://www.facebook.com/tapperietbrus/
Mikkeller and Friends and Koelschip
With its so-damn-cool Scandi design, it’s hard not to love Mikkeller and Friends. Clean lines, wooden furniture and brightly-painted walls make it feel large and airy and I particularly love the little seating nooks providing a bit more privacy. Beer-wise, there’s 40 beers available on draught at any one time and although a good amount of Mikkeller beers on available, other breweries from Scandinavia, the UK and the US are also on offer. Always worth a visit.
If you head through the side of the venue, you’ll come across Koelschip. Formerly the site of the Mikkeller Bottle Shop, the space has been transformed into a cosy Belgian-style venue. A world away from the modern look of Mikkeller and Friends, Koelschip features dark wooden furniture, hops dangling from the ceiling and walls plastered with beer memorabilia. It’s focused on Lambic beers and has four options on draught along with a large bottle menu. As I’m not into Lambic beers, we didn’t have a drink in here but the bar does look very appealing and has a Brussels vibe about it.
We nipped in here on the way back from Mikkeller and Friends. It felt much more like a neighbourhood bar and seemed to be one of the few places during the time we were in Copenhagen to be more locals than visitors. Good range of beers but fairly slow service as there was only one member of staff on the bar.
Elmegade 2 – http://oelbaren.dk/ (Danish)
Only a couple of streets away from where we were staying, Mikropolis is a cosy basement bar with ten beers on draught and a selection of cocktails on offer. Small and intimate, it’s the type of venue I’d love to see more of – somewhere that appeals to both beer drinkers and non-beer drinkers alike. A relaxed, friendly atmosphere although on both of our visits our peace was interrupted by some loud fellow patrons – as it’s such as small space, the noise levels are very noticeable.
Vendersgade 22 http://mikkeller.dk/location/mikropolis/
This was a favourite from our last time in Copenhagen – especially as it was located very close to our hotel – so I was looking forward to a return. On our way, we got caught in a sudden downpour so it was very appealing to grab a beer and a seat in this cosy little basement bar. There’s a number of options on draught – mainly from Scandinavia – and it also has table football. We popped in a second time a few hours later and it was showing three Spanish and Italian football games on three different TVs through the bar but unlike most footie-showing pubs in the UK, it was friendly and civilised with the clientele mainly small groups of friends quietly watching the game.
Nørre Farimagsgade 13 http://oerstedoelbar.dk/
Located on the other side of the river, Himmeriget has a small but well-thought out draught beer selection along with a good bottle list. The venue itself is somewhere you’d walk past if you weren’t looking for it – it doesn’t give much away from the outside. Inside, it feels like it wouldn’t be out of place in Manchester’s NQ with its DIY look. However, maybe because it was CBC week, it was a bit too busy to enjoy it properly due to its compact size and minimal seating.
Åboulevard 27, 1960 Frederiksberg http://himmeriget.dk/
One of the closest bars to CBC, Fermentoren was very busy during our visit (Saturday evening, just after the final session of CBC ended) but luckily it had plenty of outdoor space so it didn’t feel too chaotic. A good selection of beers on offer and a nicely-laid out beer garden made it an appealing place for a few drinks. Not sure I’d like to live in the flat directly above it though!
Halmtorvet 29C http://fermentoren.com/
Looking for more info on CPH? See my guide to a city break in Copenhagen over on my other blog.